Advanced Tips for Using the Waterborne Surf and Rail Adapters

I have been working a lot with the Waterborne surf and rail adapters lately.

In the process, I’ve both gained a real appreciation for them, as well as learned a lot of little details and nuances for working with them.

So in this guide, I’ll share what I’ve learned to make it easier for you to build your own custom setups with the Waterborne surf and rail adapters.

Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. This means if you click on the link and make a purchase, I will receive a small affiliate commission at no cost to you.

Use the Waterborne for Cheap, Creative Custom Set-Ups

Where the Waterborne surf adapter really shines for me is building a lot of creative custom setups as cheaply as possible.

You can use almost any typical longboard and use all of the component parts and just slap a Waterborne surf and rail adapter on it, and you have an instant surfskate.

If you’re the kind of person who loves tinkering and experimenting with custom setups, then I highly recommend that you add the Waterborne surf adapter to your quiver.

Choosing Your Waterborne Surf Adapter Version

When working with the Waterborne surf and rail adapters, your first choice is which version to choose.

They currently have a standard version, FIN version, and Dream version.

Choosing Between the Old Standard Version and the New FIN Version

First, let’s talk about the differences between the old standard version and the new FIN version.

They made some changes to the new Waterborne FIN system, the most notable obviously being the FIN piece.

If you’ve seen my Waterborne FIN review, you know the FIN piece gives you three pumping modes: Standard, Mega Pump, and Super Carve.

But the primary reason I prefer the FIN over the old standard adapter isn’t really the FIN piece. Rather, it’s that they’ve made it much easier to install.

On the old version, you have to insert bolts through the top of your deck and through the top adapter plate. Then, you have to put a nut on the end of the bolt to attach the plate to your deck.

On the FIN version, they give you pre-drilled and pre-threaded holes, through which you can drill your bolts directly. This eliminates the need for a nut on the end of your bolt.

So given that the FIN version gives you more customization options and it’s much easier to install, I highly recommend it over the old standard adapter.

Choosing Between the Standard Adapters and the Dream Adapter

Now let’s talk about the difference between the new Waterborne Dream system and the other two.

The Waterborne Dream surf adapter system is a complete integrated adapter, similar to the Carver C7 and YOW Meraki.

Instead of needing to attach trucks to it, it comes pre-installed with a reverse kingpin (RKP) truck. Since the truck is integrated into the adapter, you’re not able to replace it.

The Dream system also comes with the FIN piece to give you Standard, Mega Pump, and Super Carve modes.

Aside from the design, the main difference between the Dream and the other two is that the Dream only comes currently with reverse kingpin trucks.

In contrast, you can use either traditional kingpin (TKP) or reverse kingpin (RKP) trucks with the Standard and FIN adapters. So you have more customization options with those two over the Dream, and especially with the FIN.

So when you’re choosing between these three, here are my recommendations:

First of all, if you’re choosing between the Standard and FIN adapters, go with the FIN over the old standard one because it’s much easier to install and you have the options with the FIN.

If you’re choosing between the new FIN and the new Dream, then the main decision there is, do you want to use TKP trucks or RKP trucks?

If you know you want to use RKP trucks, then for sure I’m going to say go with the Dream system.

However, if you want the ability to use either TKP or RKP trucks, then I’m going to say to go with the FIN system over the Dream.

Choosing Your Waterborne Rail Adapter Version

If we’re talking about just the Waterborne rail adapter, then I highly recommend that you get the new updated version over the old version.

I say this for two reasons:

First, the old one is hard to work with. It requires you to use nuts, and the plate gets stuck on the kingpins.

To fix this, like the front surf adapter, they give you pre-threaded holes through which you can drill your bolts. This eliminates the need for nuts entirely.

To fix this, the plate on the new version has spaces around the kingpins, into which they insert a small plastic piece. This prevents the plate from rubbing against the kingpins, thus eliminating any rattling or other noise.

Choosing Traditional Kingpin (TKP) or Reverse Kingpin (RKP) Trucks

In order to choose between the Waterborne FIN or Dream systems, you first need to know which types of trucks you want to use with the adapter.

Traditional kingpin (TKP) trucks are used on skateboards. They’re built with a vertical kingpin, and with the pivot point on the opposite side of the truck hanger from the kingpin.

Reverse kingpin (RKP) trucks are used on longboards. They’re built with an angled kingpin, and with the pivot point on the same side of the hanger as the kingpin.

TKPS are also lower than RKPs.

The vertical kingpin on TKPs makes the lean vertical instead of horizontal, so it turns a little less than RKPs.

On RKPs, the kingpin and pivot cup are angled, which gives them a wider lean and closer turn.

TKPs are more stable and are built for grinding, while RKPs are built more for turning.

When attached to a Waterborne surf adapter, TKP trucks make for more nimble carving, while RKP trucks make for more flowy pumping and cruising. RKP trucks also generate more forward momentum than TKPs.

After a lot of experimentation, for most setups, I’ve come to prefer TKPs over RKPs. Although there are some setups on which I actually prefer RKPs.

One challenge with using TKPs is that they can create wheelbite. I’ll give you tips for eliminating that below.

Choosing Your Truck Hanger Width

Another important detail is that the width of your truck hanger makes a big difference to the feel of your ride.

The most standard hanger width is 150mm. This makes for a measurement of 8.5” from axel end to axel end.

There are many other hanger width options (as well as different truck heights).

I have tried a few different hanger widths on a lot of set-ups, and in every case, I have always preferred the standard 150mm hanger.

The wider hanger widths change the feel and flow of the adapter. They’re not quite as nimble and don’t flow quite as well.

Another issue with wider hanger widths is that they make the surf and rail adapters more prone to wheelbite.

So personally, I very rarely will use trucks wider than 150mm (hanger width).

Waterborne Surf Adapter Installation Tips

Let me walk you through the process of installing the Waterborne surf adapter, and I’ll give you tips throughout.

For this demonstration, I’m using a 60” Koastal Drifter deck.

First, let me say that you will typically have an experimentation process before you finally hone in on the perfect set-up for you.

In this case, I’ve already done the work to know what I like best on this Koastal deck. And in this case, I’m going to use the Waterborne FIN surf adapter with traditional kingpin trucks.

The Waterborne surf adapter installation instructions tell you to install it onto your deck without taking it apart.

I have found that it’s much easier to install by taking it apart. And since I always replace the stock bushing, I have to do that anyway.

So the first step is to remove the kingpin nut from the surf adapter, using a skate tool or ratchet wrench.

Once you’ve removed the nut, pull the plates apart. You’ll find a set of washers and bearings on the bottom adapter plate, as well as another set inside the top adapter plate.

Fish those washers and bearings out of both locations and set them to the side, keeping them all in place.

The Waterborne surf adapter stock bushing comes in 95a durometer. I weigh 190 pounds, and at my weight, that bushing is very soft. It makes the Waterborne very divey with not a lot of rebound back to center.

So if you weigh over about 150 pounds, then I recommend you replace the stock surf adapter bushing with a RipTide bushing for the Waterborne surf adapter in 97.5a durometer.

The easiest way to replace the Waterborne surf adapter bushing is to remove the kingpin nut first. To do that, you need to put the kingpin nut onto the kingpin. Screw it on until it is almost flush with the top of the kinpin.

Then, you can hammer the kingpin out without damaging the kingpin threads.

Place the adapter onto a hard surface and use a hammer to pound out the kingpin.

Then, remove the kingpin nut, slide the kingpin out, then remove the bushings.

Next, replace the bushing with your new RipTide bushing for the Waterborne surf adapter. Reinsert the kingpin through the bushing.

Use your finger to swipe a little grease off the front of the adapter, and use it to apply a thin layer of grease over every surface of the bushing. This will prevent squeaking.

With the bushing replaced, now it’s time to attach the top adapter plate to your deck.

This brings us to an important point. You need to make sure that your bolts are short enough so they won’t protrude too much past the plate.

If the bolts are too long, the other plate can knock against them when swinging from side to side.

If you’re using the new FIN version, getting the right bolt length is easier because you don’t need to attach a nut to the end of your bolts.

Use a drill to attach the top adapter plate to your deck.

But before you do that, you want to attach your trucks to the bottom plate.

Use the hex bolts provided in your Waterborne kit. Slot them through the top of the adapter plate, where they will lock in place in channels.

Use your fingers to hold those bolts in place, while turning the adapter over.

Slide your truck baseplate holes over the bolts. Make sure your pivot cup is facing forward on the adapter.

While holding the bolts in place with one hand, use your other hand to attach nuts to the bolts.
Then use a skate tool to tighten the nuts.

First, replace your internal set of washers and bearings into the channel of the top plate.

Then take your bottom plate, with the truck attached, and slide the square slot over the bushing.

Next, replace the external set of washers and bearings, with the smallest and thickest washer on the top.

Now use a ratchet wrench to screw your kingpin nut on. Make it snug, without it being too tight so as not to damage the bearings.

How to Eliminate Wheelbite on the Waterborne Surf Adapter

Like I said, if you choose to use TKP trucks, you will most likely get wheelbite. There are a few solutions for dealing with this:

• Add risers. Personally, I don’t like this option because surf adapters already put you so high off the ground. So I never use risers on the surf and rail adapters.
• Use RKPs instead of TKPs. RKPs sit higher off the ground and eliminate wheelbite entirely. But if you want to use TKPs, this is obviously not an option.
• Use smaller wheels (65mm or smaller).
• Make wheelwells in your deck, using a Dremel or whatever you have available. (Obviously, don’t do this on nice decks that you want to keep nice.)

In my experience, that last option is honestly the easiest way for me to use TKPs and whatever size wheels I want while eliminating wheelbite.

But like I say, you don’t want to do that on a nice deck. So that only works on a deck you don’t mind carving on.

Furthermore, it only works on a deck that is at least a half-inch thick. Thinner decks don’t give you enough to work with.

Waterborne Rail Adapter Installation Tips

With our surf adapter installed, now it’s now time to install the rail adapter.

As with the surf adapter, rather than installing it to the deck all put together, it’s easier to first take it all apart. (If you’re going to replace the bushings, you’ll need to do this anyway.)

Use a skate tool or ratchet wrench to remove the kingpin nuts.

Next, lift the bottom plate off of the kingpins, then remove the barrel bushings between the plates.

The stock Waterborne rail adapter bushings come in 85a durometer, which is very soft. If you weigh more than about 175 pounds, you’ll most likely get wheelbite on the rail adapter with those stock bushings.

So an easy way to customize the rail adapter is to replace the bushings with harder durometers.

You want to use the right size, which is .6” high. But you can use either barrels or cones for either the top or bottom bushings.

That’s something you have to experiment with to get right for your weight and preference.

Your next step is to attach the top plate to your deck, the same way we did with the front adapter.

Before doing that, you need to know that there are different configurations you can use with the rail adapter, which change your wheelbase. So that’s something to play with as well.

Once you’ve chosen your preferred configuration, thread bolts through your deck and through the plate.

If you’re using the new FIN version, you’ll be able to drill directly into the plate without using nuts.

Make sure your bolts are the right length so as not to protrude too much. If they do, they can knock against the other plate as you lean from side to side.

Next, install your top bushings (whether barrels or cones, and in whichever durometer you want).

With your truck attached the bottom rail adapter plate, now slide that whole piece over the rail adapter kingpins to put it in place. Make sure your truck pivot cups face the back of your deck.

Next, slide your bottom bushings in place (barrels or cones in whichever durometer you prefer), followed by your cup washers and kingpin nuts.

Use a skate tool or ratchet wrench to tighten the kingpin nuts. Make sure the nyloc is complete over the threads to lock the nuts in place.

How to Eliminate Wheelbite on the Waterborne Rail Adapter

 To eliminate wheelbite on the Waterborne rail adapter, you can use any of the methods I listed above for the surf adapter.

In addition, you can use harder bushings, which will make the rail adapter lean less.